Baedeker’s 1900, Wines, Restaurants, and Confectioners

18 Dec

As I mentioned earlier, we came to Austria with a 1900 edition of Baedeker’s.  Again, with Baedeker’s 1900 as the source for all the quotations here. For some reason, the volume began a discussion of Austrian wines immediately following its introduction to Viennese restaurants.  I’ve reversed the order.

The other posts, some also slightly out of order from Baedeker’s, are

Train Stations and Tramways

Hotels and Baths

Wines, Restaurants, and Confectioners

Theaters, Concerts, and Music in Churches

Natural History Museum

Wines.

“The best white Austrian wines…”  Today the best Austrian wines are the white Grüner Veltliner (pretty good at about 10-12 for a liter) and some fairly expensive red that I don’t know from Burgenland (Umathum and Moric are mentioned, really only slightly more expensive than the whites).  Baedeker’s lists the places where the wines come from, not the wines themselves, so the wines don’t have the names given.  That said, they list six white wines and one red from Austria and five whites and three reds from Hungary.  People with taste here would not disagree with the notion that Austrian white wines are six times better than its red wines.

Several of the locations mentioned grow Gruner Veltliner wines.
Weidlinger

 

 Weidlinger_Straße_Weinberge

 

Gumpoldskirchener

330px-Freigut_thallern

 

Pfäffstättner

Pfaffstägtner

 

Vöslauer (now known for its bottled water)

Voeslauer_001

 

Retzer

Retz_Keller_Weinflaschen

 

Mallberger

1200px-Mailberg_Schloßanlage_Gesamtansicht

 

Ruster (wine from Rust, Burgenland)

rust


Hungarian wines.
The transition from German to Hungarian names is sometimes insurmountable.  I couldn’t find Ofener, a wine mentioned in Baedeker’s in 1900 as a red Hungarian wine, and Carlowitzer as a white wine of high quality. Perhaps wine connoisseurs out there can help identify these types?

Neszmelyer — yes as Neszmely wine region

borvidek

 

Szegssarder, as Szekszárd, once there, you will certainly recognize this
as a field of  grape vines!

HU-TO-Szekszárd023

 

Schomlauer: the current name is Somlói, with many varieties of white wines.

somloiwine

 

Tokay — yes, as the dessert wine Tokaji

Tokaji_wine

 

Erlauer, known for the wine Erlauer Stierblut (literally, “oxblood” which I always took to be an insult to wines, as in tasting like “fortified oxblood”.)

Erlauer Stierblut

 Restaurants and cafes.

Checking these is too much work for too little result.  If the restaurant was in a hotel, it may still exist. For the rest, the location will survive even when the proprietors and their recipes are long gone.

Confectioners.

Baedeker’s 1900 lists cafes and restaurants, but the most likely enduring institutions are really the Konditorei, sometimes spelled in English, Conditori.  You can eat anywhere, but where can you get a good cup of coffee and a piece of cake?  Three or four of those mentioned in the 1900 edition still remain.  The beautiful Janele, across from the Opera on Operngasse, came and went in the mean time.  Their Nusstasche or Milchrahmstrudel could sustain a student.  Janele’s location, like many of the restaurants, still is a Konditorei, complete with its mirrors incised with Janele’s name.

IMG_20151030_121258

Note the Janele name still in the glass, while the cafe is now in different hands.

Before we get started though, I have to mention Cafe Hawelka (Dorotheergasse 6) also.  A student and artist hang out, sitting on a bench by the bar, Frau Hawelka presided over it decades ago.  Her son serves now.  Erika remembers it as a bit shabbier.

hawelka_int

George at Cafe Hawelka.

Currently, Yelp finds 34 Konditorei in Vienna which register 4 or more stars.

Those famous ones that were recommended in 1900:

Demel, Kohlmarkt 18,  now Kohlmarkt 14.  You won’t believe the fare–still the most beautiful room.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

 

Gerstner, Kärntnerstrasse 12.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

 

Pischinger, Kärntnerstrasse 42, no longer a Konditorei, but still a bakery making a namesake cake since 1881.  It looks a lot like a Mannerschnitten to me.

Pischinger_(chocolate_oblaten_cake)

 

Gollwitz, Lugeck 1.  Nope.

Ehrlich, Rothenturmstrasse 22. Nope

 

Lehmann, Singerstrasse 3–the building and the name are still there, but it is now part of a franchise group. Lehmann was the confectioner to the Kaiser.

Konditorie_Lehmann_-_Aussen

 

Gfrorner, Kilowrat Ring 1.  Nothing.

Ullman’s Söhne, Sechshauser Strasse 15.  Nothing. There is now an Ullman’s Konditorei in Leopoldstadt, 2. district, but I’m not sure it’s the same family.

Jordan U. Timaeus, Freisingergasse 6. Nothing
Cabos, Kärntnerstrasse 37. Cabos as a maker of biscuits (cookies) lasted until the 1980s.

330px-Wien_Biscuits_Charles_Cabos

V. Schmidt and sons, Stefans Platz 19.  Nothing

[We’ll fire the copy editor ifhe ever shows up again.]

 

5 Responses to “Baedeker’s 1900, Wines, Restaurants, and Confectioners”

  1. Peter Detwiler December 18, 2015 at 5:04 pm #

    George: Great comparisons, especially of the rooms at the Natural History Museum. But have you “gone native” after all these weeks in Vienna? Your English is taking on a German syntax as in this comment about Room VII: “Here is now early fossils.” Peter

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  3. Baedeker’s, 1900, Theaters, Concerts, and Music in Churches | esauboeck - December 19, 2015

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