As I mentioned earlier, we came to Austria with a 1900 edition of Baedeker’s. Again, with Baedeker’s 1900 as the source for all the quotations here. For some reason, the volume began a discussion of Austrian wines immediately following its introduction to Viennese restaurants. I’ve reversed the order.
The other posts, some also slightly out of order from Baedeker’s, are
“The best white Austrian wines…” Today the best Austrian wines are the white Grüner Veltliner (pretty good at about €10-12 for a liter) and some fairly expensive red that I don’t know from Burgenland (Umathum and Moric are mentioned, really only slightly more expensive than the whites). Baedeker’s lists the places where the wines come from, not the wines themselves, so the wines don’t have the names given. That said, they list six white wines and one red from Austria and five whites and three reds from Hungary. People with taste here would not disagree with the notion that Austrian white wines are six times better than its red wines.
Vöslauer (now known for its bottled water)
Ruster (wine from Rust, Burgenland)
Hungarian wines. The transition from German to Hungarian names is sometimes insurmountable. I couldn’t find Ofener, a wine mentioned in Baedeker’s in 1900 as a red Hungarian wine, and Carlowitzer as a white wine of high quality. Perhaps wine connoisseurs out there can help identify these types?
Neszmelyer — yes as Neszmely wine region
Szegssarder, as Szekszárd, once there, you will certainly recognize this
as a field of grape vines!
Schomlauer: the current name is Somlói, with many varieties of white wines.
Tokay — yes, as the dessert wine Tokaji
Erlauer, known for the wine Erlauer Stierblut (literally, “oxblood” which I always took to be an insult to wines, as in tasting like “fortified oxblood”.)
Restaurants and cafes.
Checking these is too much work for too little result. If the restaurant was in a hotel, it may still exist. For the rest, the location will survive even when the proprietors and their recipes are long gone.
Baedeker’s 1900 lists cafes and restaurants, but the most likely enduring institutions are really the Konditorei, sometimes spelled in English, Conditori. You can eat anywhere, but where can you get a good cup of coffee and a piece of cake? Three or four of those mentioned in the 1900 edition still remain. The beautiful Janele, across from the Opera on Operngasse, came and went in the mean time. Their Nusstasche or Milchrahmstrudel could sustain a student. Janele’s location, like many of the restaurants, still is a Konditorei, complete with its mirrors incised with Janele’s name.
Before we get started though, I have to mention Cafe Hawelka (Dorotheergasse 6) also. A student and artist hang out, sitting on a bench by the bar, Frau Hawelka presided over it decades ago. Her son serves now. Erika remembers it as a bit shabbier.
Currently, Yelp finds 34 Konditorei in Vienna which register 4 or more stars.
Those famous ones that were recommended in 1900:
Demel, Kohlmarkt 18, now Kohlmarkt 14. You won’t believe the fare–still the most beautiful room.
Gerstner, Kärntnerstrasse 12.
Pischinger, Kärntnerstrasse 42, no longer a Konditorei, but still a bakery making a namesake cake since 1881. It looks a lot like a Mannerschnitten to me.
Gollwitz, Lugeck 1. Nope.
Ehrlich, Rothenturmstrasse 22. Nope
Lehmann, Singerstrasse 3–the building and the name are still there, but it is now part of a franchise group. Lehmann was the confectioner to the Kaiser.
Gfrorner, Kilowrat Ring 1. Nothing.
Ullman’s Söhne, Sechshauser Strasse 15. Nothing. There is now an Ullman’s Konditorei in Leopoldstadt, 2. district, but I’m not sure it’s the same family.
Jordan U. Timaeus, Freisingergasse 6. Nothing
Cabos, Kärntnerstrasse 37. Cabos as a maker of biscuits (cookies) lasted until the 1980s.
V. Schmidt and sons, Stefans Platz 19. Nothing
[We’ll fire the copy editor ifhe ever shows up again.]