Tag Archives: Guadalajara

Guadalajara: one theater and one museum

13 Apr


We took the “Directo” bus into Guadalajara the other day, with the intention of seeing the interior of the famed Teatro Degollado (it wasn’t open when we were last there), and then taking the local bus over to the artisan suburb of Tonalá, where so much of Jalisco’s crafts are made.  We took a taxi to the Centro Historico, right next to the Teatro.

We were able to walk right in to the Teatro, and the attendants were eager to have us enjoy the beautiful interior. They even turned the lights on especially for us.  The ceiling depicts scenes from The Divine Comedy. It was built between 1856 and 1866–the height of Mexico’s most European-inspired phase and at a time of its greatest theatrical production.  As Spanish-speaking friends tell me, the word “degollado” means “beheaded”, a rather distressing name for a cultural center, but perhaps an appropriate title for a military general, which is who the theater is honoring:  Santos Degollado (1811-1861), who had fought alongside Juarez and who died while the theater was being built. Guadalajara’s Philharmonic performs here, as does the opera. I would be most happy to attend a performance in this space.

After this visit, we went back to the elegant Hotel Morales, where we had eaten before. Such an inviting and comfortable space, where we had a lovely meal at a very reasonable price. Accommodation in this historic hotel is also amazingly affordable.

As we sat there reading fascinating books from the hotel’s little library, I decided that instead of going to Tonalá, which is all about selling things that we really weren’t going to buy, I needed a museum fix.  So we looked at the Guadalajara tourist map, which led us to two museums right near the center of town. One of them–a museum of periodicals and graphics–is unfortunately closed for renovations, but the other one was such a gem that we were more than satisfied with our find.

The Museo de las Artes Populares de Jalisco (Calle San Felipe & Calle Pino Suárez) is housed in a delicately-stuccoed 19th-century villa about 4 blocks from the main plaza. “Popular arts” in this case means not only folk art, but also popular contemporary craft works. This was the museum that we thought we were going to see in Tlaquepaque, with the whole gamut of  Jalisco’s traditional crafts on display. The exhibits are delightful, with the best explanatory labels I have seen in a museum anywhere, in Spanish and English. Finally, we were able to place technique with product and location; the labels even highlighted the best artisans of each technique. Now I can go back and link up all those ceramic pieces from the Panteleon with the correct style.

The objects on display included work in wax, stone, yarn, and obscure techniques such as chilte, objects made out of the sap of the sapodilla tree. And look at this excellent descriptive label:

My favorite displays were of altars and rooms. The replica of a traditional Jalisco kitchen was particularly charming. The altars were for a ritual for Our Lady of Sorrows, and a particular version of a Dia de los Muertos shrine, including bread figures, but not adding  fruits or drink.

The Huichol people created a significant indigenous culture in Jalisco, and the museum has tremendous examples of their crafts and most revered images. The deer, which was most sacred to the Huichol, has been placed on the museum’s stairway wall, and yarn masks and beadwork occupy several rooms.

The reigning shrine of Guadalajara is dedicated to the Virgen de Zapopan, whose statue is the focus of a romeria, or pilgrimage procession, which takes place between June 13 and October 12 each year, when the figure travels to every church in Guadalajara. The museum naturally had a figure of this Virgin, festooned with sombrero and rebozo.

After such a rewarding afternoon of viewing objects of such tremendous skill and diversity, we decided that we would forego any other museum visits that day, and headed back to Ajijic. To our amazement, we found that this little jewel of a museum is not even mentioned in our Lonely Planet guide!  I have a feeling that Guadalajara has so much more to offer than we have been able to see, and we have been disappointed that our guidebooks, what few we have found, have been so lackluster in their descriptions of the history and culture of the region.  We’ll have to visit more often, and with natives who can show us the real city.

On that note, I will end with more images from the Museo, including, of course, a cat, this one of polished clay.


1 Apr

For our anniversary (March 17), we splurged and hired a private driver to take us to Tlaquepaque, one of the more upscale neighborhoods of Guadalajara. Hiring private drivers is a common practice here, since renting cars can be quite expensive, and driving in Mexico is not for the faint-hearted. This ended up costing us about 1000 pesos–about $50–but we figured it was our anniversary, so we went all out. In future, we will take the “Directo” bus into Guadalajara, then get a taxi–a much more reasonable option, at about $15 all up.

Of Tlaquepaque we knew only what we had read in our Lonely Planet guide, which wasn’t a lot, but the book did tell us that there were two museums of ceramics in the neighborhood, and I had found what sounded like a good restaurant from Trip Advisor online. We had the driver let us off right next to the first of the ceramic museums we had read about, Museo Pantaleon Panduro, also referred to as Museo Nacional de la Ceramica, on the corner of Florida and Sanchez.

The museum is housed in one section of an enormous convent hospital built in the 18th century. Somehow the Lonely Planet description of the collection led us to believe that this was a collection of all kinds of traditional Mexican folk art, when in fact it displays the winners of a national annual award for artisanal ceramic craft. It took us a while to figure this out, however. Entering the museum, the one woman at the front desk seemed pleasantly surprised to see foreigner visitors. There were no guides, no brochures, no explanations of what was to be found in the rooms in front of us, and no bookshop. A group of students were working diligently on some project in a room off of the central courtyard. While there were some guards and curators wandering around, no one spoke English, and while tremendously friendly, they really acted as if they had never seen a tourist before. When I tried in my broken Spanish to find out how the collection came to be, one guide hailed a woman, obviously a curator of some kind, who went upstairs to bring down a book and gave us three DVDs about the “Premio”–the award which provides the museum with all of its artworks (I think; the DVDs gave no documentation of the awards, but just florid rhapsodies about the “miracles” of native creativity!). In any case, it is a magnificent collection of the extremely rich and varied ceramic arts from around the entire country.  I used to have some knowledge about the styles of various regions, but I have gotten very rusty now, and will have to do some research to remember which motifs come from which area.

True to form, I was also intrigued by the numerous interpretation of cats that the collection included, ranging from traditional lions to modern versions of ceramic felines.

Finally, my very favorite work in the collection was in the room dedicated to women artisans, in a style that I was not immediately familiar with. bluejar_1990_pantaleon_tlaquepaque

Created by Gabriela Aldana Luna, from Tonalá, Jalisco (home of Guadalajara’s best artisans), it won second place at the Awards in 1990.  I have now done a little research to learn that, as I suspected, this blue-and-white style developed as early as the 17th century in Puebla, in direct imitation of Chinese ware that was imported through the galleon trade. So this is a modern craftsperson creating a traditional style that was consciously emulating an Asian style, but incorporating native designs of local animals and flowers.  Syncretism indeed!

ceramicsmuseum_arcade_tlaquepaqueOur next stop was the Museo Regional de la Ceramica, on Independencia, Tlaquepaque’s main shopping street. The setting is once again an impressive adobe complex, which was once a

lionptg_archway_ceramicsmuseum_tlaquepaque - Copy

A whimsical design on an arch in the bookshop of the Museo.

magnificent house for one of Guadalajara’s aristocratic families. Beautiful arches!  The courtyard had several craftsman vendors, and there is even a very good shop, with books and ceramics for sale.

The collections here were more diverse than Pantaleon, with both English and Spanish labels, and more descriptive information. We were enchanted with the whimsical creations, including a ceramic airplane, and an entire wall of individual tiles. And check out those spooky nahuales!

After feasting on all this visual gorgeousness, it was time for lunch. We walked over to Zaguan, the restaurant I had found reviewed on Trip Advisor. And what a great find it was!

Very innovative menu–that’s G. eating a fish taco entrada with tortillas made out of jicama.  The mushroom bruschetta were fantastic! One of the best meals we have had, tasted like home made creative food, and certainly the best meal we have had in Mexico so far. NO ONE was there, which is dismaying; we hope more people come for dinner.  If you’re ever in Guadalajara, be sure to go there! Zaguan, Juarez 5, Tlaquepaque 45580.

Finally, on our walk back to find our driver, we found, as only we seem to be able to find, a public library!

The library seems to have grown out of one person’s efforts, and is now, by all appearances, a thriving center, with a children’s room, and, as we saw when we walked in, classes of all sorts for adults (this one was a workshop in making ceramics, appropriately enough).

A very nice day for our first venture into the big city of Guadalajara.  We have now also gone into the Centro historico on regular bus, and will, hopefully, report on that adventure, too. Next week, we will go to Tonalá, the other suburb of town where most of the artisanal crafts for which the city is famous are actually made, and cost far less than in the toney shops of Tlaquepaque.