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Surfing : Idle Curiosity. Editing : Intruding?

17 Jun

[Another George post! –ee]

Today is June 17.  Chambers Book of Days mentions that the Roxburghe Club — the famously exclusive book collectors’ club — was founded on this day in 1812.  Curious about its publications — each member is expected to publish an antiquarian volume for their fellow 40 club members — I found a list of the club publications and a list of the club members at its website.  Among the current members are the fashionista Christopher Gibbs and Getty Images founder Mark Getty.   After a romp through Gibbs’ antic career as reported in Wikipedia, I checked Getty’s page there.  In neither instance does the Roxburghe get a mention.  Curious about Getty’s wife Domitilla Harding, I found her photo on Google Images accompanying a Daily Telegraph story about her support of the Lambton sisters’ effort to get some inheritance.  The story mentioned that the Lambton and Getty marriage ended in 2011.

A keen Wikipedia editor, I now wonder if I should edit Getty’s page to include mention of his Roxburghe membership.  It wouldn’t hurt but there’s not much room for it.  Should I also mention that his marriage ended?  I don’t think so — it seems intrusive.

Stuff for dinner

17 May

In the Sigmundsgasse kitchen in Vienna.


Dinner.  It’s lovely to eat, but the ratio of time is about 4 to 1 of preparation and table.  The pleasure needs to be in the kitchen.  What are we doing in the kitchen?  Fiddling with groceries on their way to the table.  So I’ll talk mostly about groceries here, since that’s what I like best.  So there!

We’ve been here fall, winter and spring.  Unlike our experience a couple of dozen years ago, the fruit has been various throughout the seasons — apples, oranges, bananas always pretty good, berries variable, melons very good, and the cost of all seasonal.  If you’d rather buy an avocado than a car, it’s yours. The same is true of veggies — zukes are somehow always good, lots of them coming from Africa in the winter, I guess.  The local spring greens of a surprising variety start to arrive in the south from February or March and northward from March and April.  The affordable winter lettuce must come from greenhouses.  Arugula hits the shelves like a spring rain.  Radicchio and endive are a bit expensive, but still worth it to my mind.

One of the Bosnian markets.

One of the Bosnian markets.

Let me get some order in this.  Salad, done.  Standard vegetables:  everything is like the U.S.  Frozen peas and beans are great.  Onions, potatoes, shallots (!), mushrooms (watch for forest-picked mushrooms usually from stands on the roadside), carrots, and cabbage are routine and good.  I may have mentioned the asparagus arriving in a flurry.  They’re really keen about produce as it comes to market through the season for good reason.

Because I can’t speak the language, I look for my meat in packages.  Our butcher in Lisbon, whose shop was literally on the ground floor of our apartment building,  insisted that he could speak enough English that we could get what we wanted.  It had never occurred to me that ground beef for hamburgers might be different from ground beef for meatballs. He had the best cheap wine too.



In the enormous Kaufland supermarket, East Berlin.

Similarly, the fish mongers were wonderful.  I was astonished watching a woman in a normal store cleaning whole squid.  Sorry to say, but I was too timid to venture beyond recognizable fish.  Once you get to a fish market here, you’ll understand what I mean by “normal” fish.  That said, I had a squid ink risotto that I know I could make if I could get the ingredients.

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”Our” wonderful fishmonger in Barcelona.









Sliced meats of a million sorts are usually sold in 100 gram portions.  The same goes for dips and olives and dozens of other treats.  Again,  look up the local phrase “one hundred grams” in Google Translate and point.  They will understand when you gesture for more.


Enter a caption

Bread is a fraught topic.  In fact, it’s not an issue.  Outside of the German-speaking countries the bread is mediocre.  We didn’t even find very good Italian bread in Trieste. You can pick from bins or cello-wrapped loaves if you want.  The women (truly, always women) behind the bakery counter will halve most loaves for you and often slice them, too.  It’s a matter of point and nod or ask for a bit of English.  I’ve never had an uncomfortable interaction, but I have sometimes ended up accepting what didn’t surprise me to be not quite what I’d hoped for.

Let me revise my assertion that only German-speaking bakers are any good.  We were in Greece on a special bread-making day (“a special bread-making day”? yeah, sure, why not?) that featured an incredible big thin loaf of white bread with lots of sesame seeds sprinkled on it that sustained us for days.  We found a loaf full of seeds and nuts at Veritas, an organic shop in Barcelona, so good that I mourned when we’d finished eating it.


In an Athens bakery on the special bread day. 

Wassa Brot crackers are usually available.  I love the British cracker Tucs,  but sadly it uses palm oil, so I shouldn’t eat them.

Sweets and baked goods are fantastic and dependent on their origin.  Honestly, although everyone says that they are traveling for high cultural experiences, they’re really in Europe to eat.  The reason to eat lunch and dinner late in Barcelona is to snack at 11 and 4.  Sure, visit the Temple of Hephaestos in Athens, so you can cross over for something in the cafes adjacent to the site.  I don’t mean some modest cookie; order a small plate of grilled sardines and a glass of wine or a couple of chicken and spinach filo pastries to tide you over until dinner several hours later.  The Viennese museums all have cafes.  My suggestion is that you are visually tired after an hour or so, but a snack can give you a second hour of viewing.  You can pretend to pretend to come to the cultural site for the coffee but really come for the coffee.

What else?

Our soups are usually based on chicken broth from inexpensive parts — backs and wings, boiled for a short while with onion and carrot, cooled, cleaned, the bones returned to the pot and the bits of flesh set aside and usually used in a chicken stew.

The electric mixing wand we bought in Barcelona has saved its cost three times a week making vegetable soups.

All up, as usual success is in the planning.  One bowl for salad and pasta?  Make the salad and move it to the salad plates.  One element boils, the others only warm?  Use the tea kettle to boil the water for the peas. And one time I ended up boiling eggs in the tea kettle!

Oh, here’s something.

What we traveled with (or here’s pretty strong evidence that my suggestions are not particularly sensible after all) as we went from one kitchen to another:

Small French press, bag of coffee, bag of black tea, some packets of herb tea, carton of goat’s milk, small cheese grater, head of garlic, bottle of olive oil, usually a chunk of pecarino cheese and a bit of butter (there’s a dangerous substance to carry around–I once had a pat of butter melt into my shirt pocket!), measuring spoons, packets of oregano, basil, whole black peppers and sugar, a lemon, a couple of empty plastic bags, and as snacks on the road a couple of mandarin oranges, some peanuts, some digestives biscuits (McVite’s were the favorite).

What we found at our destination apartments:

Dish soap, liquid bath soap, salt, pepper (not always), pasta (often), sugar, one beer and one wine (not always), coffee, tea, herb tea, tp (two rolls usually)

[EE:  this may be the last of George’s missives on fun in the kitchen in Europe! Laundry tips may follow!]

KP : Kitchen Patrol? Not really.

15 May

[George continues his recounting of life on the road and in the kitchen….ee]

Right now we’re staying in Hans and Edith’s Vienna apartment.  Its kitchen is spacious, well equipped, and, with a big window, well lit — a trifecta shared by only Evy’s Andros apartment once we gave it a microwave.  (Yes, yes, I know, they’re superfluous, but if you freeze much broth or drink your morning coffee slowly, a microwave comes in handy.  I wish I’d learn how to cook veggies in one.)


Stoves and ovens.

The local technology in each country has provided us with simple, usually flawed electric stove tops with pretty good ovens, and when our stars shine (in Vienna and Portugal), gas stoves.  I sent the following description of the weird elements on a see-through stove that was a bit worse than normal to the owners of our apartment in Barcelona:

I use a gas stove top, so the electrical stove top is a real  novelty for me.  I thought that a rheostat would make it possible to vary the heat of the elements.  Here they are either on or off, but serially and not very conveniently.  The stove has right and left top and right and left bottom elements.
At 1, in the 1st and 2nd minute, only the top right element works, it is bright red.
At 2, in the 1st minute, the top left element is hot, the top right element is bright red, in the 2nd minute the top right element alternates off and on.

At 3, in the 1st minute, the top left is bright red on but usually off, the top right element is usually on but sometimes alternating.  The lower left element is bright red.

At 4, the top left element is on and off bright red, the top right element is usually bright red but also sometimes off, the bottom left element is bright red for the first minute and on and off bright red for the second minute.
The lower right element never turned on.

In short, the clever cook will spend a few minutes in the first evening checking which elements can boil water and what settings will simmer.  Keep notes and plan your cooking accordingly.  If you’re not used to electric cooking, keep in mind that the element is brilliantly hot for a few moments, then off for a few moments.  Someone will make a fortune when they re-introduce the rheostat. [EE: As you can tell, we do not like electric cooking, and George always assumes that everyone else feels the same way, and that no one in America has had to deal with electric cooking!]


Most of the ovens have had convection fans, believe it or not.  I understand that there’s a terrific benefit, but I only ever made biscuits and roast chicken.

Our Meals.

Breakfast.  We traveled with a French press, coffee, and a mixing wand.     Several of our apartments had single-shot fancy coffee makers, but we never used them.  I can barely boil water before a cup of coffee, so the press worked perfectly.  One-cup filters would work well, too.  The filters are routinely available in the grocery stores.

My breakfast was usually coffee, soft-boiled eggs, and some version of toast.  Toasters are rare;  jaffa-makers don’t really work, but if you use only a bit of oil and butter, you can toast bread in a frying pan pretty well.  Eventually I got so I would tolerate plain bread.  Erika had coffee and sometimes a smoothie — goat or sheep yogurt, berries or pear, and banana (have I mentioned that I despise this perfect  fruit — portable, cheap, routinely available, tidy as, healthy, tasty if you don’t mind banana — that I had as a snack nearly daily for years).  Otherwise, she had muesli.

It takes some looking to find unsweetened juice, so we often just juiced our own oranges.  The goat or sheep’s milk products for Erika’s wonky stomach are usually in the better stores and easily found the farther south you travel.  Eggs sell half and full dozen, but you can get them singly at the markets — what a pleasure to take a small paper bag full of eggs home nestled amidst the lettuce and spinach!


Lunch.  When I could, I’d shop for both lunch and dinner in the morning.  We’d have a substantial lunch and a light dinner.  Often we were out and about starting at about 10:00 and would have lunch in a cafe or restaurant.  When we did, we generally shared a first course and a salad.

Dinner.  Served next Tues.  I need some photos of the markets.

From each according to his abilities…

12 May

(George has now written an entire tome of Helpful Hints for shopping, cooking, and cleaning in Europe. This will be the first of many installments, I’m sure.–ee)


Those of you who have followed this blog will know that Erika is in charge of museums, travel arrangements, accommodations, finances, community/police relations, photography, reportage, and the like.  That is all well and good, but I should point out that, in addition to eating lunch with her, my principal roles have been to carry heavy things and look after the kitchen.


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In Evy’s house on Andros Island.


Usually, the apartments you find on AirBnB or HomeAway (we need a generic term for these private services) have been meant for just-married couples, young people in the first jobs, aged grandparents, or as vacation homes.  That is to say, the kitchens will be rudimentary, but there will be plenty of cleaning products.  Tourists are supposed to eat in local restaurants.  Of course, the reason to book privately rather than take a room in a hotel is to cut prices.  I can cook a dinner of baked chicken thighs and legs, braised zucchini, rice with saffron, and a salad, with drinks for less than €10.  This would cost €60 at a restaurant.  Speaking honestly, we do not much like to be out in the evenings or for breakfast (less than €5 in, maybe €20 out).  When we were out and about, we ate lunch at restaurants.

Shopping:  “Excuse me, do you speak a little English?”

Shopkeepers have, without fail, been kind to me.  I have rarely known how much they should charge, and have often offered a palm full of change for them to pick out what I owed.

Once a woman in a market in Bosnia took a €2 piece for about 100 Marka’s worth of early spring pot herbs ($2 for $1 worth), but it was worth the price for the deadly look she got from the woman I had just spent €5 with for a good-sized bag of several veggies.

The open-air and central markets are the most fun.  Sometimes the stall-holders are unhappy if you help yourself, but accepting if you simply load handfuls of produce into your bag.  They simply don’t want you picking through or handling the fruit and veggies.


Boqueria Market, Barcelona.

The fish mongers will not allow you to pick up and hand them a fish.  They will clean, scale, and fillet what you buy.  More precisely, they will ask you questions you won’t understand.  When you say, “Yes,” they will do what is usually done with the fish in question.


Fish stall, Borough Market, London.


It saves a lot of anxiety if you allow the locals to do what they expect you to want done even if that turns a pork loin into pork stew meat or sends you home with a cut-up rather than whole chicken.  I was surprised several times to see how a butcher’s cut varied from my expectations.

Standing in line:  watch for local custom when queuing.  If I needed to speak to the stall-holder, I would aim for the end of the line.  It’s difficult to ask the woman selling you €8 worth of fish if she has some heads and bones for you to make fish broth with, but  I usually ended up with about a kilo of them for free.  (Barely cover with water and boil them with some onion, celery, and pepper corns for only about 30-45 minutes.)

People try to be accommodating.  Routinely, when I needed a little parsley, not a bouquet of it, the grocer would throw in  several sprigs for free.

Grocery stores.  Go ahead, Google the location of the local grocery store.  Oops, better figure out what the local term for market or grocery store is. In most places, we found supermarkets everywhere, usually German companies, but we did our best to find local shops as well.

To get a cart, you have to put a Euro into a little slot to release a small tongue of metal attached to a chain.  You get the Euro back when you plug the tongue back in.  A similar arrangement is at the lockers in museum cloak rooms.  The trick is to have a Euro available.

The layout in most supermarkets is not a challenge, but you’ll have no idea where anything is.



The enormous Kaufland supermarket in Berlin.


In many stores you are required to weigh and label your fresh veggies and fruit, and sometimes fresh bread, either identifying it by picture or number.  Again, with a little preparation (write down what Google Translate says is goat’s milk yogurt or baking powder and be ready to show it to the shelf stocker), some hand signals, and a lot of goodwill on everyone’s part, I was usually able to get what I wanted.  Of course bread crumbs are with bread, not with flour and baking; peanuts are with junk food.  By the way, the €1 box of red wine is much better than any bottle for less than €10.  Wine that’s more expensive than €10 is uncharted territory for me. Sorry, wine connoisseurs!



An exception to the admonition to routinely agree with what you’ve been asked comes at the check-out.  I’m pretty sure that the first question in the markets translates to “Do you have a store card?”(most supermarkets in Europe have fallen into the same lamentable promo systems as in the U.S.), followed by “Would you like to buy a carry bag?” (you are expected to bring your own, but can purchase bags, both plastic and paper, in most shops), and “Do you need your parking voucher stamped?”  A vague smile and a gentle “No thanks” conveys that you are mentally incompetent but not a threat.  Try to give the smallest bill you can and change if possible.  There is usually a little tray where you can dump a pocket-full of coins to let them pick out what they need.

So ends my first installment….

Baedeker’s, 1900, Natural History Museum

19 Dec

[George’s take on the wonders of the Naturhistorisches Museum. He was the keeper of Baedeker’s, so he really had fun comparing the rooms then and now]

As I mentioned earlier, we came to Austria with a 1900 edition of Baedeker’s and have had no end of fun checking to see what remains a century later.

The other posts, slightly out of order from Baedeker’s, are

Train Stations and Tramways

Hotels and Baths

Wines, Restaurants, and Confectioners

Theaters, Concerts, and Music in Churches

Natural History Museum

Once we start talking about institutions of real learning, of course Erika has beaten me to the punch with an elegant and readable blog entry: Naturhistorisches Museum

Following on in my plodding approach, here’s the room by room summary of continuities and changes.

Natural History Museum


Room I.  “Large rock crystals … At the middle window is a group of stalactites from the Adelsberg Grotto.”  Yep.  But the stalactites might have been moved 20 feet from a central window to one nearer the door.

Nathist minerals


Room II.  The diamonds have been moved to more secure lodgings in room IV.


Room III.  Maria Theresia’s crystaline bouquet and the opal have been moved similarly to room IV.

NatHist crystal


Room IV.  Building materials of Vienna, much enlarged are now in room I.  Itś hard to convey how cool a series of rectangular, polished stones can be.   These carefully identify where on which building in Vienna these types of stone are used and where they were mined.

Secure cases are along the far wall.

NatuHist Bldg


Room V.  Meteorites.  Yes, lots of them in interesting variety.

Room VI.  Portraits and a display of coal-forming plants are gone, replaced by a variety of educational displays.

Room VII.  The limestone erosion is now in Room VI.  Now the room houses early fossils.

Room VIII.  The fossil water lilies and pterodactyls are still here.

NatHist lilies


Room IX.  No skeleton of a goat by the door, but fossils galore.

Room X.  No skeletons of bears and lions, but dinosaurs and the like and a huge turtle.

Room XI.  Prehistoric relics.  Yep, including the famous Venus.

NatHist Venus


Room XII.  Prehistoric tombs and relics.  Now some graves and also some salt mines and the like.

Room XIII.  Iron Age implements and Celtic evidence.  Yep.

Erika found the stuffed birds in XIX – XVI too depressing to venture on to the second floor where  taxidermist’s art is applied to increasingly complex animals.  Why a mouse is more complex than an octopus, I can’t imagine.  Suffice it to say that the maps in Baedeker’s and from the Museum match pretty well, as one would expect.

As Simon Winder writes in Germania, the Naturhistorisches Museum is one of the miraculous survivors of the destruction of Europe in the 20th century, and remains ”one of the great repositories of pre-1914 learning.” And lots of fun!

Baedeker’s, 1900, Theaters, Concerts, and Music in Churches

19 Dec

As I mentioned earlier, we came to Austria with a 1900 edition of Baedeker’s.  Tickets to events in the theaters and concert halls are a bit pricey for us, but music in the churches is always inexpensive and sometimes is free.  You don’t feel much inclined to get into your fancy duds, though, to sit on a rock-hard bench in the freezing cold of a Gothic or Baroque church.  Honestly, two out of three did have some form of laughably rudimentary heating.

The other posts, slightly out of order from Baedeker’s, are

Train Stations and Tramways

Hotels and Baths

Wines, Restaurants, and Confectioners

Theaters, Concerts, and Music in Churches

Natural History Museum

Theaters and concerts.

Baedeker’s 1900 begins this section with “Imperial Theaters”, meaning, I suppose, that these were the theaters sponsored by the state.  In 1900 Austria still had an aristocracy:

Opera, Opernring, of course.

Opernhaus_Wien_Staatsoper-Van_der_Nüll-187x Staatsoper Wien, Innenansicht


Hof-burgtheater, now the Burgtheater, Burgring. This theater is the home of ”Burgtheaterdeutsch”, considered as one of the most eloquent, clear, and melodious forms of the German language. Essentially a theatrical German, it was implemented as a way to override the various dialects and pronunciations found throughout the Austro-Hungarian Empire.
Burgtheater burgtheater_1900[1]

Hofberg Theater, 1907

 Private Theaters

Volkstheater, Neustiftgasse 1 (corner of Burggasse & Landesgasse)


Volkstheater, 1900.

Volkstheater_Vienna_Rote salon Sept_2006_002

Red Bar


Concert Hall


Theater an der Wien, Linke Wienzeile 6


Here’s the plaque on its wall — I mean, really, Beethoven lived in a dressing room or something in 1803-4 when he premiered here Fidelio, the 3rd Symphony, and the Kreutzer Sonata (Violin Sonata no. 9.)


Carl Theater, Leopoldstadt.  Closed in 1929.




Theater an der Josefstadt, Josefstädter Str. 26



Kaiser-Jubiläums Theater,  now the Volksoper.


Volksoper 1920

Raimund Theater, Wallgasse 18-20

Raimund Theater 1905



 Jantsch Theater.

Begun as a popular theater, it was from the 1920s a well-loved cinema in the Prater. When it burned down in 1981, it was the last of the many movie houses that had been the entertainment hub of the Prater area.


Postcard of Jantsch-Theater, 1900.

Music in churches.

In 1900, Baedeker’s lists music in churches with this short statement: ” At 10 a.m. on Sun. in the Votive church…and the Alt-lerchenfeld Church…; at 11 a.m. in St. Stephen’s Church…, the Hofburg Kapelle…, the Augustine Church, and the Karls-Kirche…” (p. 7)

Today, it’s a little more complicated. The churches listed below host concerts, usually classical or liturgical.  The cost is modest compared to the proper concert halls.  These and many others also have choral works presented more or less for free, usually on a Sunday afternoon.

Votiv Kirche, Rooseveltplatz

Saint Stephan’s, Stephan’s Platz


Altlerchenfelder Kirche, Mentergasse 13, 1070 Wien. No music routinely scheduled at present.
Hofburg Kapelle, Hofburg-Schweizerhof.  Special events often.


Augustiner Kirche, Augustinerstraße 3




Karlskirche, Karlsplatz.  As well as scheduled concerts, there is free organ music Monday through Friday at 15:00, and Saturday and Sunday at 20:00



Baedeker’s 1900, Wines, Restaurants, and Confectioners

18 Dec

As I mentioned earlier, we came to Austria with a 1900 edition of Baedeker’s.  Again, with Baedeker’s 1900 as the source for all the quotations here. For some reason, the volume began a discussion of Austrian wines immediately following its introduction to Viennese restaurants.  I’ve reversed the order.

The other posts, some also slightly out of order from Baedeker’s, are

Train Stations and Tramways

Hotels and Baths

Wines, Restaurants, and Confectioners

Theaters, Concerts, and Music in Churches

Natural History Museum


“The best white Austrian wines…”  Today the best Austrian wines are the white Grüner Veltliner (pretty good at about 10-12 for a liter) and some fairly expensive red that I don’t know from Burgenland (Umathum and Moric are mentioned, really only slightly more expensive than the whites).  Baedeker’s lists the places where the wines come from, not the wines themselves, so the wines don’t have the names given.  That said, they list six white wines and one red from Austria and five whites and three reds from Hungary.  People with taste here would not disagree with the notion that Austrian white wines are six times better than its red wines.

Several of the locations mentioned grow Gruner Veltliner wines.










Vöslauer (now known for its bottled water)









Ruster (wine from Rust, Burgenland)


Hungarian wines.
The transition from German to Hungarian names is sometimes insurmountable.  I couldn’t find Ofener, a wine mentioned in Baedeker’s in 1900 as a red Hungarian wine, and Carlowitzer as a white wine of high quality. Perhaps wine connoisseurs out there can help identify these types?

Neszmelyer — yes as Neszmely wine region



Szegssarder, as Szekszárd, once there, you will certainly recognize this
as a field of  grape vines!



Schomlauer: the current name is Somlói, with many varieties of white wines.



Tokay — yes, as the dessert wine Tokaji



Erlauer, known for the wine Erlauer Stierblut (literally, “oxblood” which I always took to be an insult to wines, as in tasting like “fortified oxblood”.)

Erlauer Stierblut

 Restaurants and cafes.

Checking these is too much work for too little result.  If the restaurant was in a hotel, it may still exist. For the rest, the location will survive even when the proprietors and their recipes are long gone.


Baedeker’s 1900 lists cafes and restaurants, but the most likely enduring institutions are really the Konditorei, sometimes spelled in English, Conditori.  You can eat anywhere, but where can you get a good cup of coffee and a piece of cake?  Three or four of those mentioned in the 1900 edition still remain.  The beautiful Janele, across from the Opera on Operngasse, came and went in the mean time.  Their Nusstasche or Milchrahmstrudel could sustain a student.  Janele’s location, like many of the restaurants, still is a Konditorei, complete with its mirrors incised with Janele’s name.


Note the Janele name still in the glass, while the cafe is now in different hands.

Before we get started though, I have to mention Cafe Hawelka (Dorotheergasse 6) also.  A student and artist hang out, sitting on a bench by the bar, Frau Hawelka presided over it decades ago.  Her son serves now.  Erika remembers it as a bit shabbier.


George at Cafe Hawelka.

Currently, Yelp finds 34 Konditorei in Vienna which register 4 or more stars.

Those famous ones that were recommended in 1900:

Demel, Kohlmarkt 18,  now Kohlmarkt 14.  You won’t believe the fare–still the most beautiful room.



Gerstner, Kärntnerstrasse 12.



Pischinger, Kärntnerstrasse 42, no longer a Konditorei, but still a bakery making a namesake cake since 1881.  It looks a lot like a Mannerschnitten to me.



Gollwitz, Lugeck 1.  Nope.

Ehrlich, Rothenturmstrasse 22. Nope


Lehmann, Singerstrasse 3–the building and the name are still there, but it is now part of a franchise group. Lehmann was the confectioner to the Kaiser.



Gfrorner, Kilowrat Ring 1.  Nothing.

Ullman’s Söhne, Sechshauser Strasse 15.  Nothing. There is now an Ullman’s Konditorei in Leopoldstadt, 2. district, but I’m not sure it’s the same family.

Jordan U. Timaeus, Freisingergasse 6. Nothing
Cabos, Kärntnerstrasse 37. Cabos as a maker of biscuits (cookies) lasted until the 1980s.


V. Schmidt and sons, Stefans Platz 19.  Nothing

[We’ll fire the copy editor ifhe ever shows up again.]